The latest theme is "Let recipes travel and collaborate."
The Grand Gelinaz Shuffle was a one-night-only food event held simultaneously around the world, with 38 chefs from 17 restaurants from 138 countries (148 time zones) participating. )” (hereinafter referred to as “Jelina’s”). From Tokyo, Yoshihiro Narisawa from NARISAWA, Zaisuke Hasegawa from Fu, Luca Fantin from Il Ristorante-Luca Fantin, and Sushi M ', Hideki Ii of 'Charcoal Grilled Kappo Shirasaka', Sergior Meza who temporarily opened an event-only store, ' Eight people participated, including Thomas Frebel of ``INUA'' and Yoji Tokuyoshi of ``Alter Ego.''
The catchphrase for 2019 is "Nobody Move!" Past events were held in such a way that participating chefs swapped kitchens, but the idea was sustainable: ``It's not eco-friendly for a lot of chefs to travel by plane,'' and the future is ``Chefs will be more closely connected to their local communities.'' Based on this prediction, we came up with our first experimental idea: ``let recipes travel and collaborate.''
Image visual of Jelina's. I shuffled the recipes and the recipes flew around the world. The model is Mei Chow, a participating chef from Hong Kong's Happy Paradise, who won the Best Female Chef award in Asia's 2017 Best Restaurants in 50.
“Gelina’s” is an open event that welcomes all gastronomists.
According to Andrea Petrini, CEO of Gelina's and a world-renowned food writer, ``He is a chef with an excellent international sense, who understands the concept of events, and who can work with us to enliven the future of gastronomy.'' '' and directly asked them to participate by phone or email.
Another feature is that reservations are open. In general, special events such as collaborations and pop-ups with limited dates and times are often held under closed conditions, where regular customers are given priority due to the limited number of seats and the large number of people who wish to participate. .
Food writer Andrea Petrini is the CEO of Gelina's. He is the long-time chairman of the French branch of The World's 50 Best Restaurants, and last year founded the World Restaurant Awards.
However, ``Jelina's'' has started accepting reservations worldwide on its official website. In other words, it's first come, first served, and anyone can participate if they apply. Unfortunately, in Tokyo, the hurdles were a bit high for general guests, as there was not enough advance notice and the English website required payment in euros, and as a result, it was different from other events. The event was attended by a large number of attendees, but ``Alterego'' was attended by students from culinary schools who admired Tokuyoshi's global success. The younger generation may not be able to infiltrate the Internet, but they are strong on the Internet.
Petrini also made an unprecedented call to his guests. "Guests can watch the chefs struggle, cheer them on, make fun of them, storm into the kitchen, sing and dance at their tables, and spread the word on social media all over the world, making this a special night together." I have to have it.”
"Alterego" Yoji Tokuyoshi showed the unique talent and charm in "Jelina's"
Based on the above premise, I decided to attend a dinner held by Yoji Tokuyoshi of "Alterego". Why “Alterego”? This is just my personal opinion, but I hope it will be helpful.
Yoji Tokuyoshi opened Ristorante TOKUYOSHI in Milan and became the first Japanese to receive a Michelin star in Italy in just 10 months. In February 2019, he opened "Alter Ego" in Jimbocho and hired Hidehito Hirayama, who had been working as sous chef, as head chef.
To be frank, events like this can be very hit or miss. If you're looking only for a high degree of perfection and deliciousness, then it's the cuisine genre that the chef has extensive experience in (for Tokuyoshi, it's Italian), and the regularly served menu is well-thought out after a long period of trial production. no doubt. I had experienced the regular menu at Alterego and was impressed by its originality and quality, but I was also curious to see how big the gap would be and how much Tokuyoshi-ness would be expressed. Another point of the restaurant is that it has a strong signage that says, ``When you think of this chef, this is the dish.''
Look at this counter, huh? Many of you may have thought so. Currently, Zaisuke Hasegawa's Japanese restaurant ``Den'' has moved to Gaienmae, taking over the space that was once there, and is using it almost as is.
What and how is the dish completed? The store's structure and staff, where you can watch the whole process live, are also attractive. Even during regular business hours, ``Alterego'' does not hide anything from Tokuyoshi to the service staff, including head chef Hidehito Hirayama. He generously shares everything with his guests, from the origins and producers of his carefully selected ingredients to the cooking techniques he has cultivated himself.
Hidehito Hirayama is the head chef of Alterego. On the night that ``Jelina's'' was held, he was coordinating the food with Tokuyoshi until just before the service. Each time I visit, the quality of the food improves and the customer service becomes more sophisticated. I'm looking forward to its future evolution.
I had expected this in advance, but when I actually participated, I was surprised by Tokuyoshi's ability to analyze recipes and his ability to verbalize them. Since some of the participants were students, how did they break down the original recipe and what did they add or subtract to arrive at this final form? The true essence of this event was Tokuyoshi's presentation, which was sometimes cynical and sometimes funny, revealing what was inside the star chef's head.
A night where chefs and foodies connected beyond borders and genres.
Due to time zones, Tokyo was the earliest city in the world to start ``Gelina's.'' “I’m in Alterego at Gelina’s.” Just by posting this on social media, people from foodies around the world will contact me and ask me, ``Whose recipe do you think this is?'' Tokuyoshi's prediction was, ``A city in Mexico, or somewhere in Texas that serves American Tex-Mex cuisine.It's not fine dining, but a casual diner or cafe bar.'' The recipe revealed after the meal was right on target: Joaquin Cardoso, a chef at a casual cafe and wine bar in Mexico City called Loup Bar.
"Falafel Mexican Style". A dish of chickpea croquettes, which is a casual snack, but has a delicate flavor with fava beans and scallops. Colorful toppings such as coriander, lime, and red chili peppers in oil give it a Mexican feel.
"Ravioli in Broad". Homemade ricotta and spinach ravioli. The two-tone color harmony that floats in the transparent broth made from the skin of the chicken and cheese is beautiful. It's fun to add toppings along the way and change the taste from Italian to Mexican.
"Avocado Beef Tongue Macadamia Nut". This is the dish that made the recipe provider, Cardoso, say, ``I want Tokuyoshi's recipe.'' The recipe has been transformed from simply combining thinly sliced toast with sliced avocado and mayonnaise to a gastronomic dish that contrasts the texture of thickly cut juicy beef tongue with the creamy texture of avocado.
Photography by Shifumi Eto
Even while we were eating, we received messages on social media from places like Hong Kong and Taipei, where the race started an hour late, and Bangkok, where it started two hours late. "How about that? The first dish was good, but the second dish was terrible. It seems like the recipe and the chef aren't a good match." This is my first experience of eating a meal that has such a global live feel.
Cardoso, the recipe provider who saw Tokuyoshi's cooking, also reacted. ``Tokuyoshi's food looks more beautiful and delicious than what we serve at my restaurant.'' He immediately sent videos of fruits native to South America that were listed as ingredients but not available in Japan. The fruit, which is said to be ``distinguished by its bright red color,'' was photographed under a red parasol exposed to the strong Mexican sun, so you can't tell the color at all. I didn't even know about the chef or the restaurant, but after watching this video and seeing his innocent praise for Tokuyoshi, I fell in love with him instantly. I would like to go to Mexico City someday.
With Tokuyoshi as a hub, this event gave us the feeling that producers and consumers are connected to the world. We advocated a new way to enjoy restaurants that was completely different from ratings. The next event has not yet been decided, but I hope Japanese foodies who love eating while walking should come and experience this craze.
The Grand Gelinaz Shuffle
A guerrilla food event that takes place simultaneously all over the world. At the December 2019 event, 12 chefs from 38 countries served menus prepared by other chefs at their restaurants on the same day, albeit at different times. The combinations are chosen by lottery. It was only at the end of the dinner that it was revealed whose recipe the recipe belonged to. Eight participants from Japan include Yoshihiro Narisawa, Zaisuke Hasegawa, Luca Fantin, Nobumasa Nakamura, Hideki Ii, Sergio Meza, Thomas Froebel, and Yoji Tokuyoshi. The next event is undecided.
https://gelinaz.com
Alter Ego
Address: 32-XNUMX-XNUMX Kanda Jimbocho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Telephone number: 03-6380-9390
Business hours: 18:00-20:00, 20:30-22:30
Closed: Sunday
https://alterego.tokyo/
Ristorante Tokuyoshi Official Instagram
@ristorantetokuyoshi
AlterEgo official Instagram
@alterego.tokyo
Yoji Tokuyoshi Personal Instagram
@yojitokiuyoshi
AlterEgo Head Chef Hidehito Hirayama Personal Instagram
@hidehito_hirayama
Photography by Ahlum Kim
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