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The 30th generation young head of the Yamashina school of traditional Japanese clothing, Yamashina Genchika, explores the annual imperial court events and aristocratic culture

2025.12.9

The "Chōyō Festival" on September 9th of the lunar calendar has a deep connection with the Yamashina family.

Uchigi is a smaller version of the kouchigi, a casual attire worn by women of the Edo period. It was used as formal attire for women at the Imperial Court in the first half of the Meiji period, and later came to be used mainly when serving at religious ceremonies.

Since the end of the Heian period, the Yamashina family has inherited the "Yamashina School of Emondo," a family profession in Kyoto that is responsible for the tailoring and wearing of court attire for the nobility. Tokichika Yamashina, the young head of the family, who is in his 30th generation since the founder, will unravel the occasional events that have taken place at the Imperial Court and in the society of the nobility, as well as the culture that has been handed down through the ages, along with costumes and ancient documents remaining in the Yamashina family.


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The pattern of broken chrysanthemum branches and a round hibiscus flower is woven with white thread on a burgundy background.From autumn to winter,Colors dyed with safflower were often used for costumes.


At the Imperial Court, the Double Ninth Festival, held on September 9th of the lunar calendar, was a typical late autumn event.



The trees are changing color and the chill is starting to set in. This time, we'll be introducing some of the Imperial Court events that take place from late autumn to early winter. We've touched on seasonal festivals several times in previous articles, and one of them, the "Choyo no Sekku" festival, held on September 9th of the lunar calendar, was a representative late autumn event at the Imperial Court. However, it seems to be less well-known today than the other five seasonal festivals. The word "Choyo" comes from the idea of ​​yin-yang and the five elements, where odd numbers are yang and even numbers are yin, and refers to the day when nine, the largest yang number in the decimal system, overlaps. However, this idea has become unfamiliar, which may be a factor.

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The Zucchini bag is a bag containing Zucchini (a kind of fruit) that is hung on a bamboo blind or pillar during the Double Ninth Festival to ward off evil spirits, and is filled with artificial chrysanthemum flowers and fruit-bearing Zucchini. In this illustration, the chrysanthemums are thread flowers made from silk thread, the Zucchini are made from neri balls, and the bag is wrapped in scarlet raw silk and tied with a straight red Yasuda cord. ©YAMASHINA




Chrysanthemums that bloom during this time are known for their fragrant aroma and medicinal properties, and in fact, they last a long time when arranged in ikebana. Chrysanthemum flowers are a symbolic and familiar plant, as seen in the Imperial Family's chrysanthemum crest. However, speaking with chrysanthemum farmers, I learned that modern people tend to associate chrysanthemums with funeral flowers. Chrysanthemums have traditionally been considered auspicious flowers, representing longevity and prolonged life, as in the stories of the boy named Kikujido, who gained immortality by drinking chrysanthemum dew. Learning about the thoughts and background stories entrusted to chrysanthemums can help us understand the meaning behind the various chrysanthemum-related rituals that take place during the Double Ninth Festival.

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"Chrysanthemum Child" by Kaiho Yusetsu (1598-1677), the subject of the painting is a Chinese fairy. He was exiled to the mountains for stepping over the pillow of King Mu of the Zhou dynasty, but is said to have gained immortality by drinking the dew from a chrysanthemum. He is also well known as a subject of Noh plays. ©YAMASHINA


The custom of "Kisewata" that was practiced at the Imperial Court during the Choyo period

 



During the Double Ninth Festival, the Imperial Court had a custom called "Kisewata" that dates back to the Heian period, in which chrysanthemums were covered in cotton and left overnight, and the next morning, the dew from the chrysanthemums was soaked into the cotton, and the person would wipe themselves with it to ward off evil spirits. Many people may think of cotton when they see the word "wata," but the cotton in "Kisewata" is actually silk cotton. In the past, cotton was an essential part of everyday items such as futons and kimonos, and was often given as gifts, but it is becoming less and less common these days.


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This painting of chrysanthemum and cotton by Tosa Mitsusada (1738-1806) symbolically features three round chrysanthemum and cotton pieces in three colors (red, yellow, and white) placed in front of a white folding screen. At the top of the hanging scroll is a poem of thanks written by Murasaki Shikibu when she received cotton pieces from Fujiwara no Michinaga's wife, Michiko: "I touch my sleeves as if to itch the dew on the chrysanthemums, and I will hand them over to the master of the flowers for a thousand years." ©YAMASHINA

 



The Double Ninth Festival, which had a deep connection with the Yamashina family



The Double Ninth Festival was a court event with deep ties to our family. It was customary for chrysanthemum cotton to be presented by the Yamashina family, who for generations served as the head of the Kuranokami (Kuranokami Bureau), the office responsible for preparing costumes and other items for the Imperial Court. This tradition can be seen in the diaries and records of successive heads of the family.

 




""Gotokyoki" September 7th, 1567 (Eiroku 10)

``Kikunowata advances to the Imperial Palace, as usual, the three colors of yellow, red, and white, Bunnyo this.

 I respectfully submit this to you, and I hope you will take it into consideration and handle it as you wish.To Nakahashi Tono's office."




A few days before Choyo Day, three colors of chrysanthemum cotton (yellow, red, and white) were to be presented to the Imperial Court. When presented through a lady-in-waiting, a message was attached, and as always, there were rules regarding the words used to convey the intention to present the item. This recalls the relationship between the role played by the nobles and Imperial Court events. Furthermore, at the celebration banquet on Choyo Day, the Emperor presented the attendees with an Imperial cup, and they also drank chrysanthemum sake.



Inokomochi, a tea cake associated with the Imperial Court, is a prayer for good health.



October in the lunar calendar (around November in the Gregorian calendar) marks an important time for those hosting tea ceremonies, with the opening of the hearth and the opening of the tea jar. A popular tea snack associated with the Imperial Court at this time is the auspicious Inoko mochi, a rice cake meant to pray for good health. However, during the Edo period, the rice cakes distributed at the Imperial Court were simple, round, three-colored rice cakes. According to rank, nobles received black rice cakes, those of the fourth rank received red, and those of the fifth rank and below received white rice cakes. These were given out on the day of the boar in the Chinese zodiac. On each of the two or three boar days each month, a specific plant was placed underneath the mochi, with the mochi wrapped in shinobushi grass and decorated with chrysanthemums, maple leaves, and ginkgo nuts, creating a seasonal theme.

 


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The painting depicts a pestle used to pound rice cakes by Kaihoku Yuzo (1740-1781). The poem is a waka poem that is recited three times when the emperor pounds rice cakes with the pestle: "In the month of Godlessness, in the rainy days of the rain, my thoughts come true, pounding, pounding," and was written by Shigenoi Korei (1733-1781), a nobleman known for his great scholarship and knowledge of court etiquette and customs. ©YAMASHINA



The Imperial Court also had a tea-drinking culture, and in particular, the ceremony to cut off the tea jar stored on Mount Atago was a lively affair, with tea distributed to the vassals and accompanied by a meal. Unlike traditional formal events, this was also an important event, where people gathered together to enjoy the time. It is known that some noble families had heads who were devoted to the tea ceremony, and in the late Edo period, literary hobbies such as sencha tea became popular. There were ways of enjoying tea that suited the nobles' tastes, such as using open shoin rooms as venues and featuring elegant tea utensils.

 


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"Menu for New Tea Ceremony" At the tea ceremony held at the Imperial Court, a main meal of three soups and eleven side dishes, snacks with sake, and tea sweets were served according to the rank of the tea-holder, and the menu details the ingredients and quantities. This gives us a glimpse into the eating habits of the nobles at the time on formal occasions, and shows that the culture of enjoying tea was deeply rooted at the Imperial Court as well. ©YAMASHINA



Court noble culture has been woven together through a long history and undergone changes



In recent years, progress in excavations at the site of the Noble Town has raised hopes that the true nature of food culture in court society during the Edo period will be shed light on Imari ware tableware (imperial goods) that was used daily at the Imperial Court. As we examine the remaining historical materials, we realize that there is still much we do not know about the daily life and sensibilities of the Edo period, even though it was four or five generations ago. Gradually grasping the cultural ways of the nobles, which have been woven together despite changes over a long history, offers many insights into how we should consider the cultural attitudes we should adopt in today's society, where times are fast-paced and information is often confusing.

 


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The tableware used at the Imperial Palace in the early modern period was based on Imari porcelain. A style was established in which the ware was dyed with gosu on a white background and decorated with the Imperial Chrysanthemum crest, and many such tableware have been excavated from the ruins of Noble Town and other places. Pottery such as Kyo ware was also used, but porcelain, which was prized as a luxury item at the time, dominated the market. All tableware was replaced with new ones once a month, and used tableware was presented to vassals. The photo shows a cute and intricate incense holder in the shape of a jewel. ©YAMASHINA


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The first Kyoto Station Building Art Festival was held from October to November this fall, and the 9th day of the 9th month of the lunar calendar was celebrated during the festival. I collaborated with ceramic artist SHOWKO on the theme of Double Ninth Festival, and exhibited a work titled "The Immortal's Box." SHOWKO painted chrysanthemum flowers, and on the back of the ceramic board I scattered an old poem by Fujiwara no Shunzei, which was recited when dressing the immortal: "The dew on the chrysanthemums that hangs on the sleeves of the immortal, even if I wipe it off, it will last a thousand years." I symbolically placed the three-colored cotton wool that is used to cover the chrysanthemums inside the box and exhibited it. © GEIJUTSU NO EKI






























































































Mr. Yamashina Mr. Yamashina

Yamashina Tokichika / Young head of the Yamashina school of kimono. Born in Kyoto in 1995, he completed his master's course at the Graduate School of Human and Environmental Studies at Kyoto University. He is the 30th successor to the Yamashina family (former nobles) who have passed down the tradition of preparing and wearing "shozoku", the attire worn at the Imperial Court for generations. He performs kimono at the three imperial festivals "Kasuga Festival", "Kamo Festival", and "Iwashimizu Festival", as well as the "Reiwa Grand Ceremony". He also appears in various media, gives lectures to companies, government agencies, and cultural organizations, plans exhibitions, and conducts customs research for history programs. He is involved in a wide range of activities to spread the tradition of Imperial Palace culture, serving as the representative director of the Yamashina Yusoku Research Institute and a researcher at the Doshisha University Imperial Court Culture Research Center.


































































Edit by Masao Sakurai (Office Clover)
Photos by Azusa Todoroki (bowpluskyoto)

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