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Beyond that, to Kyoto

2023.12.10

Jikko-in, Honen-in, Shisen-do, Gio-ji...4 selections of old temple gardens/flower tours to enjoy in winter in Kyoto

©Akira Nakata




Winter flowers bloom in the precincts of temples in Kyoto, where there are fewer visitors. The flowers bloom quietly and cheerfully, giving off a gentle color in the dignified atmosphere, giving you a sense of warmth. Sasanqua flower, camellia, cold peony……. We will introduce the winter gardens of Kyoto's ancient temples, Jikko-in, Honen-in, Shisen-do, and Gio-ji temples, where winter flowers bloom gracefully, giving a different look than in spring or autumn, as well as the best time to see the flowers.

 

 

Jikkoin Temple
Cherry blossoms dye a corner of the shrine grounds pale red in winter.


















Jikkoin Temple Jikkoin Temple

The branches broke due to the snow about three years ago, and the young tree is now starting to bloom, although it looks a little different from what you see in this photo. ©Akira Nakata



Jikkoin's perennial cherry blossoms Jikkoin's perennial cherry blossoms

``Fudanzakura'' of ``Jikkoin'' is used as a proper noun and is a type of October cherry tree. Fudan-zakura, a variety that can be seen all over Japan, is a combination of wild cherry blossoms and Oshima-zakura, and is different from the ``Fudan-zakura'' of Jikkoin. ©Akira Nakata

 






Jikko-in is one of the sub-temples of Ohara-dera Shorin-in, a temple that represents Ohara, the area of ​​Rakuhoku. Jikko-in, which was rebuilt in the Muromachi period, has two gardens: Keishinen, which has a pond viewing ceremony, and Old Rikakuin Garden, which has a pond strolling ceremony. It has two gardens and is known as a ``flower temple'' where approximately 120 types of wildflowers bloom throughout the year. In winter, a corner of the Old Rikakuin Garden is enveloped in a light pink atmosphere. Despite enduring the harsh cold, the cherry blossoms are blooming. As the name suggests, the cherry tree, which has been named ``Fudanzakura'', is a ``cherry that never stops blooming'' and is a rare variety of cherry blossom that blooms from autumn to the following spring. The cherry blossoms, which are blooming in the winter-dead temple grounds, are graceful yet at the same time exuding the dignity of an ancient temple, as if to stretch the spine of the viewer.

 

 

Fukujusou, bright yellow flowers peeking out from the frozen ground





Platypus Platypus

The reason ``Fukujuso'' is also called ``New Year's Day'' is because it blooms during the New Year of the lunar calendar (currently February). ©Akira Nakata




Walk through the strolling garden. Fukujuso is peeking out from the ground. Fukujugusa, which blooms bright yellow flowers from a corner of the ground that you wouldn't expect to see in such a place, is also known as ``New Year's Day'' and is also a seasonal word for the New Year. It blooms during the extremely cold period from the beginning of the year to around February, but once these flowers show their faces, spring isn't far away.

 




Manryo in a snowy landscape Manryo in a snowy landscape

The red fruits of Manryo stand out in the snowy landscape. ©Akira Nakata





Ohara has a lot of snow. With the entire precincts covered in white snow, the Manryo stands out. The white of the snow, the green of the leaves, and the red of ten million ryo. The stunning contrast will make you forget the cold for a moment. 10,000 ryo, 1000 ryo, Nanten. The difference between these three plants, which are known as plants that bear red fruit in winter, is that Manryo's fruit hangs down like a cherry under its leaves, while Senryo's fruit hardens on the leaves, and Nanten's fruit hangs down like a cherry. The fruit grows like grapes. If you keep this in mind, touring the garden in winter will be a little more fun.

 

The transom of the reception hall is adorned with thirty-six poetic poems written by painters of the Kano school in the mid-Edo period, as well as musical instruments called ``hensho'' that set the standard tones of the musical temperament, and items collected by generations of chief priests for practicing shomyo. Jikoin Temple has many other attractions besides flowers, such as musical instruments made from Sanuki stone and a formal tea room. Ohara in winter, when there are fewer tourists, offers an especially deep flavor.

 




Jikkoin Temple Jikkoin Temple

◆Jikkoin Best time to see winter flowers

Blooming period of Fudomazakura: From autumn to the following spring
Flowering period of Fukujusou: From the end of January to the beginning of February
Best time to see Manryo: Early December to late February

 

 

Jikkoin Temple
187 Ohara Shorinincho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
Opening hours: 9:4 a.m. to XNUMX:XNUMX p.m. (subject to change depending on the season)

 

 

 

 





Honen-in Temple
Crimson sasanqua flowers show the brilliance of life in a solemn atmosphere.





Sasanqua flowers at Honen-in Temple Sasanqua flowers at Honen-in Temple

The flower language of sasanqua is "dedicated love." Its origin is said to be that it blooms red flowers even in the coldest of winters. ©Akira Nakata




Honen-in Temple is located in the mountains of Higashiyama, close to Philosopher's Walk and Ginkaku-ji Temple. Except for the spring and autumn, when the inside of the temple is open to the public, only the garden can be seen, and in the winter there are few visitors, giving the temple a quiet atmosphere. After crossing Senshin Bridge from Tetsugaku no Michi and walking for about 10 minutes, you will see the stone steps leading to the main gate. There is a stone monument engraved with ``Enko Daishi'' next to the stairs. ``Enko Daishi'' refers to Honen Shonin, the founder of the Jodo sect, and it comes from the fact that Honen and his disciples trained in this area during the Kamakura period.




Sasanqua flowers at Honen-in Temple Sasanqua flowers at Honen-in Temple

©Akira Nakata





When you enter the Sanmon gate, there are white mounds of sand on both sides of the approach. This mound of sand, called ``Byakusadan'' (white sand platform), represents water, and means purifying the body and mind and entering a sanctuary. The bright red flowers next to this ``white sand bed'' are sasanqua flowers. The mounded sand has abstract patterns and a solemn atmosphere, and the crimson sasanqua flowers show off the radiance of life. The contrast soothes the soul. Unlike camellias, sasanqua flowers bloom with fragrant flowers from early winter until the new year, and their petals fall one by one. Its ephemeral appearance and the petals falling to the ground are also atmospheric.

 

 

A moment of worship at the graves of literary figures associated with Kyoto




Plum imitation Plum imitation

Umemyo is a deciduous shrub belonging to the Ilexaceae family, Ilex genus, and its red fruit is popular and is often used as a garden tree or park tree. ©Akira Nakata




As you pass the Shirasuna Dan, you will see a stone bridge called the Hojoike Pond, which stretches out to the left and right, and on the banks of the pond, a plum tree is bearing red berries. . This plum tree is said to have been given its name because its leaves resemble plums, but it has been popular as an ornamental garden tree since ancient times because the red fruit remains even after the leaves have fallen.

 

Honen-in Temple also has many graves of literary figures associated with Kyoto, such as Junichiro Tanizaki, Konan Naito, and Hajime Kawakami. Visiting these graves while admiring the winter flowers also provides a special atmosphere.

 


Honen-in Temple Honen-in Temple

◆Honen-in Temple Best time to see winter flowers

Flowering period of sasanqua: From early December to late January
Best time to see plum blossoms: early November to late February

 

 

Honen-in Temple
30, Shikagaya Goshonodancho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
Opening hours: 6:4 a.m. to XNUMX:XNUMX p.m.





Shisendo
Sasanqua flowers next to Koarido, inherited from a 350-year-old famous tree




Sasanqua flowers that extend their branches as if covering the temple gate Sasanqua flowers that extend their branches as if covering the temple gate

A sasanqua flower that stretches out its branches beautifully. People passing by stop and look up at the flowers in full bloom. ©Akira Nakata




Shisen-do, built by the Edo period literary figure Jozan Ishikawa as a post-retirement residence, has a beautiful garden, and is a famous spot that many people visit, especially during the azaleas in May and the autumn leaves in late November. In fact, Shisen-do is also a famous spot for sasanqua flowers, and is known for having a famous tree that is over 5 years old and blooming white flowers in the garden, which was said to be the best sasanqua flower in Kyoto. Unfortunately, that famous tree has withered, but the large sasanqua tree next to Koarido-do welcomes visitors to Shisendo in winter. This sasanqua tree, which is about 11 years old, has now reached the level of a famous tree, and blooms in large numbers with white flowers in early winter. Shisendo is also known as a famous spot for camellias, especially the Jozan camellia, named after Jozan Ishikawa, and the Shiratama camellia, which add color to the winter garden.







Senryo and Manryo sitting next to each other and bearing fruit Senryo and Manryo sitting next to each other and bearing fruit

Senryo and Manryo are next to each other and bear fruit. Senryo is on the left and ten thousand ryo is on the right. You can clearly see the difference in the way the fruit sets. ©Akira Nakata




Snow Shisendo Snow Shisendo

A snow-covered Shisen-do hall with a bright non-haired curtain. A different world will emerge from the lush greenery of spring and summer. ©photoAC




Shisen-do is also said to be the place where Joyama first devised the so-called ``Shishiodoshi,'' a device in which a bamboo tube filled with water hits stones at regular intervals, and where he enjoyed the sound. Sounds that are difficult to hear during the bustling tourist season resonate especially pleasantly in the quiet winter garden. Senryo and Manryo, which bear fruit here and there, are a lovely accent to a winter-killed garden.





Shisendo Shisendo

◆Shishendo Best time to see winter flowers
Flowering period of sasanqua: From early December to late January
Best time to see Senryo and Manryo from early December to late February

 

 

Shisendo
27 Ichijoji Monguchicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
Gate opening hours: 9:5 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (Reception closes at XNUMX:XNUMX p.m.)

 




Gioji Temple
The cheerfully blooming cold peonies remind us of the history of the temple of tragic love.





Gioji Temple in winter, an indescribable scenery Gioji Temple in winter, an indescribable scenery

Moss covering the ground of a stand of dead trees. Gioji Temple in winter, when the moss is covered with a light layer of snow, creating an indescribable sight.






Gioji is famous as a moss temple. Although winter is not the best season for moss, the garden is still covered in greenery, and combined with the dead trees, it creates a unique atmosphere. Gio, a white man who was favored by Taira no Kiyomori, was driven out of the capital due to Kiyomori's change of heart, and the place where he lived in seclusion with his mother and younger sister in a small hermitage, where he ended his life, was later known as ``Gioji''. started to be called. Because of this history, it is also known as the nunnery of tragic love. The temple, which was called ``Ojoin'' when Gio entered the temple, declined after the Middle Ages, and in the Meiji era it was abandoned and fell into disrepair, but in 28, former Kyoto prefectural governor Kunimichi Kitagaki moved to Saga. A villa was donated and rebuilt. The small hermitage, which differs from the large temple complex of a large temple, blends into Okusaga's apologetic landscape and has a dignified appearance that reminds us of a history of tragic love.





Even though it is covered with snow, the cedar moss is trying hard to maintain its green color under the snow. Even though it is covered with snow, the cedar moss is trying hard to maintain its green color under the snow.

Even though it is covered with snow, the cedar moss is trying hard to maintain its green color under the snow.




1,000 ryo 1,000 ryo





Gioji garden Gioji garden





If you look closely, you can see green moss underneath the snow. The moss, which endures the cold snow and waits for spring, somehow reminds me of a mother and daughter who ran away from the capital but did their best to survive. When she suddenly noticed, Senryo and Nanten were bearing bright red fruits here and there. As you exit the hermitage and follow the path to the left, you will come to a corner lined with old towers. One of them, the tower behind the monument inscribed with the year 1172, is said to be a tower dedicated to Gio. I stood for a while in front of the tower that stands in Okusaga, despite being exposed to the wind and rain. It's as if Gio's sorrowful lament can be faintly heard over many years.

 

 


Gioji Temple Gioji Temple

Gioji Temple
32 Saga Toriimoto Kosakacho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
Opening hours: 9:4 a.m. to 50:4 p.m. (Reception closes at 30:XNUMX p.m.)

 

 

Photo provided by Gioji Temple




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