Kitano Tenmangu Shrine is dedicated to Michizane Sugawara, known as the god of learning, and is the headquarters of the approximately 12,000 Tenmangu Shrines and Tenjin Shrines nationwide. Within the grounds of the shrine, affectionately known as ``Tenjin-sama of Kitano'' by locals, there is a place called ``Tenjin-san's Seven Wonders.'' After touring the seven spots that have been passed down since ancient times, head to Kamishichiken, which is also the approach to Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. A beer garden where you can meet geisha and geisha, one of Kyoto's oldest Japanese sweets shops, a tea room with a unique menu... Here are some recommended places to visit in this city, where you can feel the splendor that is unique to a red-light district.

Kitano Tenmangu Shrine “Kitano Tenjin” is popular at festivals and plum gardens.

Built in the mid-10th century, Kitano Tenmangu Shrine has been revered by the imperial family for generations as a deity that protects the country, while also serving as a place to disseminate Japanese culture, as evidenced by the Kitano Grand Tea Ceremony that Toyotomi Hideyoshi held throughout the grounds. It has also been revered as a local shrine. In addition, the ``Flower Garden'', a plum garden with 1,500 plum trees in full bloom, is open to the public (from late February to early March), and the ``Tenjin-san's Market'' is a festival held on the 2th of every month. It is also a shrine that is loved by people.

There are many attractions scattered within the precincts, including the main shrine, which is a national treasure, the Sankomon Gate, which is an important cultural property, and the Momiji Garden, which is a walking path along the Kamiya River on the west side of the precincts. Among these attractions, it is easy to pass by without noticing the seven places that have long been referred to as the ``Seven Wonders of Tenjin''. If you take your time and visit each one carefully, you will feel closer to Michizane.

An old legend, "Tenjin-san's Seven Wonders"
Mystery 1: On the day of the first snow, Tenjin comes down ─Kagemukamatsu─

The pine tree on the right hand side of the Otorii is a sacred tree that has been in this location since the time of its construction. Legend has it that when the first snow falls on this pine tree, named ``Yougo no Matsu,'' from the beginning of winter to the day before the beginning of spring, Lord Michizane descends and composes a poem.

Mystery #2: The main shrine that is supposed to be in front of the approach is not there? ! ─The main shrine that is out of line─

When you pass through the tower gate from the approach, you will see Jishu Shrine, a set shrine (a shrine attached to the head office that enshrines the deity). The main shrine, which should be in front of you, is on your left. Since Jishu Shrine was enshrined in this area even before Kitano Tenmangu was built, it is said that the main shrine was built to avoid the front of Jishu Shrine.

Mystery #3: There are two lights even though it is a “Sankomon”? ! ─Sankomon─

"Sankomon" is an important cultural property. ``Sanko'' refers to the sun, moon, and stars. However, all that is displayed on this gate are carvings of the sun at sunrise (red) and sunset (yellow), and the crescent moon, but no stars. It is said that during the Heian period, when the Emperor prayed from the imperial palace toward Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, he thought of the North Star shining directly above this gate as the Three Lights' Star.

By the way, Kitano Tenmangu Shrine is no longer directly north of the current Kyoto Imperial Palace, which has moved far east since the Heian period.

Mystery No. 4 Fortune-telling with a pebble placed in Daikoku-sama's mouth ─Daikokuten's lantern─

One of the many lanterns lined up on the east side of the Sankomon Gate is a stone lantern called ``Daikokuten no Toro'' with Daikoku-sama engraved on its pedestal. Legend has it that if you place a pebble in Daikoku-sama's mouth of this lantern donated in the Edo period and it doesn't fall, then if you keep the pebble in your wallet, it will bring you good fortune.

Mystery #5: This cow is the only one standing! ─The only standing cow─

In the grounds of Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, there are many statues of cows that are said to be the messengers of Sugawara no Michizane. The reason all of them are sitting is because of a story that happened when the bull that pulled the car that carried Michizane's body sat down halfway through and stopped moving. The only standing figure is the cow carved in the transom above the main hall's large bell.

Mystery #6: There is another god behind the main shrine! ─The shrine behind the scenes─

The main shrine of Kitano Tenmangu Shrine is designed so that it can be admired not only from the front but also from the back. In this place, known as the ``Ura-no-Shrine'', the ``Gokou no Mihashira'', the ancestors of Lord Michizane, are enshrined, back to back to the main shrine's shrine. It is a mystery why the ``Ura no Shrine'' was built.

Mystery #7: There was a tengu in the temple grounds! ? ─Tenguyama─

A small stone statue of a cow is enshrined behind the vermilion-painted torii gate that stretches to the northwest of the precincts. The small hill behind this shrine is Tenguyama. A picture drawn at the end of the Muromachi period also shows a humorous picture of a tengu in this position. It is unknown why this hill came to be called Tenguyama.

Hospitality provided by geisha and maiko is unique to beer gardens in the entertainment district.
Kamishichiken Beer Garden

Kamishichiken, the town in front of Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, has its origins in the Muromachi period, making it the oldest of Kyoto's five red-light districts. Kamishichiken Kaburenjo, a symbol of the red light district, transforms into a beer garden in the summer. This limited-time event, which is also known as a social gathering place for celebrities, has become a summer feature of Kamishichiken, with many people looking forward to its opening. This year (2023), it will be held from July 7st to September 1th. Of course, first-time visitors are also welcome (however, minors are prohibited from entering, even if accompanied by a guardian).

Pass through the gate of the Kaburenjo, where a lantern with the crest of a five-dango welcomes you. Surrounded by a gorgeous atmosphere. The facilities inside the Kaburenjo, including the room overlooking the Japanese garden, the railing facing the pond, and the garden, serve as seating for the audience. A geisha/maiko dressed in a matching yukata will visit the audience to greet you and hand you a senjafuda with your name written on it, ``Ota mo musashimasu'', which is unique to a geisha district.

After enjoying the cold beer and the unique atmosphere of Kaburenjo, I stepped out onto the street of Kamishichiken, and it was getting late in the evening. The shamisen and the ripples that accompany it can be heard from everywhere. Strolling around the red light district at night is one of the pleasures.

Fluffy agar stuffed inside a whole summer mandarin orange
Yusoku Confectionery Gochoshinsho Oimatsu

From the east gate of Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, walk along Kamishichiken-dori towards Imadegawa-dori. On the right hand side in the direction of travel, two noren curtains, one navy blue and one white, are visible in an elegant structure with a series of senbon lattices. This is the Kitano branch of Oimatsu, one of the oldest Japanese sweets shops in Kyoto. The official name is ``Yushoku Confectionery Gochoshinsho Oimatsu''. As its name suggests, ``Oimatsu'' has been producing sweets used in tea ceremonies since ancient times, including sweets that appeared during ceremonies and liturgies passed down in the imperial court.

Go under the noren and enter the store. You can see various wooden molds displayed near the ceiling. This wooden mold is used to make dried sweets for tea ceremonies. Autumn leaves, cherry blossoms, chrysanthemums... It's fun just looking at the many wooden molds in the shape of seasonal flowers and traditional patterns. There are a variety of sweets lined up in the store, including dried sweets for tea ceremonies and main sweets. Among them, ``Natsukanto'' is especially popular from spring to summer.

The juice of summer mandarin oranges harvested in Wakayama and Hagi, with sugar and agar added, is added to the fruit after the fruit has been removed. Many people look forward to the release of this ``Natsukanto'' every year. They start appearing in early April, and are sold out by mid-June to early July, when the summer mandarin oranges are gone. We recommend making a reservation by phone before visiting.

The perfect scone and light roasted coffee
CLEHA coffee & tea room

From Oimatsu, head further east on Kamishichikendori. If you go down the narrow alley that extends south, you will find "CLEHA coffee & tea room" which opened in January 2023. The store is housed in a building that was originally a private house, and the fittings such as sliding doors and glass windows remain the same. The menu is simple, with only a scone and drink set. This reflects the thoughts of the owners Ryosuke and Ayaka Sano. The origin of the story is the first tea room the two visited in Kobe. Since then, we have worked hard to create our own Skon, hoping to one day open a shop like this. There are two basic types of scones made from flour: ``whole wheat flour'' which is not too crunchy, and ``plain'' which is moist and smooth. Crunchy on the outside, fluffy on the inside. It goes well with sour homemade jam made by combining fruits with tea and herbs.

When you think of British scones, you think of black tea, but here we recommend light-roasted coffee, which has a fruity taste and gentle sweetness. Set drinks include two types of pot-brewed coffee, brewed using flannel drip or a tea strainer, or Earl Gray, which is scented with bergamot and oriental fruits.

``Through Skon, people can get together and have a lively conversation, or just relax by themselves.I hope people can enjoy that time,'' says Ryosuke. Eliminate fancy decorations and enjoy your tea time leisurely. This is a tea room where you can return to your roots.