Hotel dining is once again attracting attention. Dining is an important factor when choosing a hotel. The number of guests visiting hotels and staying overnight is increasing just for the dining options. We will highlight the appeal of hotel dining, which is different in size and format from restaurants in the city, and the many staff members, including the chefs, who work hard to do so.

Reasons for aiming to be the “Granvia of Food”

Hotels have a position called ``general manager.'' In other words, he is the chief executive of the hotel. In addition to general management, he also coordinates and leads each section and serves VIPs as the face of the hotel. In the case of hotels above a certain class, the ``general manager'' who carries out these multifaceted tasks is often a person who has worked in lodging or sales.

However, at Hotel Granvia Kyoto, a true chef with a background in the culinary field has been serving as the general manager since 2019. There are very few such cases, and in a sense it can be said to be unique. It is true that this is the reason why General Manager Sato aims to create the ``Gourmet Hotel Granvia Kyoto.''

Shinji Sato, former chef-turned-general manager
When I was a boy, I used to remake my mother's bento boxes myself.

"I've loved cooking ever since I was little. I wasn't happy with the bento my mother made for me, so I would make it myself."

Shinji Sato, general manager of Hotel Granvia Kyoto, began speaking. Mr. Sato attended a preparatory school with the intention of eventually becoming an educator, but he chose to become a chef because of his love of cooking from an early age.

“I was fortunate enough to work at Club Kansai, where I learned the basics of French cuisine.”

``Club Kansai'' is a club organization that was established in 23 and still exists today, with members being businessmen and cultural figures active in the Kansai region. It is also a place for company leaders to exchange information, and a dinner party is held once a week. Suddenly, I had the opportunity to experience working with people with discerning tastes.

Shocking hotel dining scene

After working at Club Kansai for 16 years, he moved to Osaka Terminal Hotel, the predecessor of Hotel Granvia Osaka. However, I was shocked by the unique hotel environment, such as the difference in thinking about cost rates and the large number of banquet dishes. Days of monotonous work making large quantities of fond de veau and grilled chicken. This continued for six months, and just when I was thinking about quitting, I was transferred to a French chef position. And so began a journey to find ingredients.

``The head chef at the time emphasized the importance of ingredients and encouraged me, so I traveled all over Japan.With the understanding of the company, I was able to purchase items in cash.Through these efforts, I gained trust from people. We were able to significantly improve the quality of the ingredients.”

Belief in French cuisine that was the secret to winning the top prize in the competition

"The food at Hotel Granvia Osaka is delicious."

Mr. Sato, who was at the center of this reputation, was selected as executive chef five years after joining the company. and implemented various reforms. The first step is to change the mindset of chefs. He preached the importance of reading and inculcated the habit of reading during breaks.

Furthermore, we have established an in-house training system to train chefs. Another thing I worked on was participating in a competition. Go out and sell your name. Granvia Osaka is always at the top of the competition. That's what we aimed for, and that's exactly what happened. The secret lies in Mr. Sato's belief in French cuisine, which still applies today.

Aiming for an evolving royal road rather than a stagnant royal road

"Pure sauce, proper cooking, and taste are the royal roads. I think that is the essence of French cuisine, not just competitions. Even if it is called the royal road, it changes with the times. The royal road is stagnant. It's a classic way of evolving.While maintaining a thorough understanding of the classics, we also evolve the pasteurization methods, especially the presentation, which is a constant struggle between tradition and innovation.This applies to all fields, not just cooking. Isn't there?"

It fulfilled its original purpose of being a regular winner of competitions, and at the same time, the level of French cuisine at Hotel Granvia Osaka also improved significantly.

The meaning of serving food in the ancient capital of Kyoto

Mr. Sato was appointed as the second executive chef of Hotel Granvia Kyoto in 2004. This was after he had been at Hotel Granvia Osaka for 13 years. "Hotel Granvia Kyoto" is a large hotel with directly managed dining options such as French restaurant "Cotosiere", teppanyaki "Gozanbo", Japanese restaurant "Ukihashi", and all-day dining "Lutan", and has over 170 culinary staff at peak times. . He was appointed in recognition of his achievements in Osaka.

``I visited food stores all over Kyoto selling miso, soy sauce, vinegar, and other ingredients.I started thinking from scratch about what it meant to serve food in the ancient capital of Kyoto, and how to incorporate Kyoto ingredients into French cuisine. We took on many challenges. Even in the current 'Kotoshieru', we use ingredients and seasonings that give you a sense of Kyoto."

New overseas training in France
The executive chef's job is to create an environment

Reviewing purchasing, changing the mindset of chefs, improving the education system, and participating in competitions. While practicing the same methods in Kyoto as in Osaka, there was a new challenge. That was overseas training for chefs. He established a system in which employees spent six months in France training at two restaurants. This system has been suspended for the past three years due to the coronavirus pandemic, but until then, the chefs who had been sent out every year and had gained valuable experience were the mainstay of Hotel Granvia in Kyoto, Osaka, Okayama, and Hiroshima. He is active as a chef.

In 2022, Kenichi Kashiwagi, a French chef who has worked with Mr. Sato since their days in Osaka as his right-hand man, will be appointed executive chef at Hotel Granvia Kyoto. As executive chef, he still works in the kitchen of a directly managed restaurant every day. Kashiwagi says.

``Although there tend to be many banquet halls, I try to be in a kitchen every day.I communicate with the head chef about all types of cuisine, not just French cuisine, but Japanese cuisine and cafes. We take things very closely, and sometimes we even say things like, ``Maybe it's better this way.'' Also, because it's such a large scale, we try to give detailed instructions, like ``It's a little cold today, so make sure the soup is hot.'' We do not forget to prepare for the competition, and we have created a number of project teams, including a team for gathering materials and a team for on-site staff, to provide support throughout the kitchen, creating an environment that motivates staff to work. It is also the chief’s job.”

From “I want to make good food” to “I want to make good hotels”

Mr. Sato, who entrusted the on-site management to Mr. Kashiwagi, began to see the hotel from a broader perspective as the general manager.

“Osaka has many local customers, but Kyoto has many customers from the Kanto region.We are thinking about what we can offer as a hotel to these customers, including food.”

Mr. Sato has heard the words "good hotel" many times. A young man who loved cooking decided to work in hotel dining, and at first he thought, ``I want to make good food,'' but over the years, that changed into ``I want to make good hotels.''

``Staying at a luxury hotel in Paris feels truly wonderful.Everything is top-notch.Most of these hotels in Paris have three-star restaurants within the hotel.In other words, they place a great deal of emphasis on dining.'' This trend is already coming to Japan, which is why we need to improve our dining experience."

Culinary philosophy passed down from generation to generation

Finally, I asked a slightly mean question. ``Don't you want to be in the field and make food as a chef?''

"Cooking is fun. I fully understand that. But if I go into the kitchen, it will be a nuisance to everyone... I try to avoid going into the kitchen as much as possible."

Mr. Sato, wearing a director's suit, smiles gently.

In fact, I spoke with Mr. Sato and Mr. Kashiwagi while they were enjoying a course at ``Kotoshiere'' that included the signature dishes they had photographed. After the meal was over, there was a very brief exchange between Kotosiere chef Hideki Kawamoto and Sato and Kashiwagi as they came out of the kitchen.

"The soup de poison may have been too light."

“Perhaps that pancetta should have a little more meaty flavor.”

A subtle sense of taste that is completely incomprehensible to the average person. It was an interaction that could only be expected from the three of them being chefs, and it was a scene that symbolized Granvia Kyoto, the Hotel of Food, where culinary philosophies are passed down from generation to generation.

The proof of a first-class hotel is its excellent dining experience. This is not because Mr. Sato is a chef. As the general manager at the helm of Hotel Granvia Kyoto, his ability to read the wind probably makes him say this. We will follow the current and future efforts of hotels to enhance their dining experience.

Hotel Granvia Kyoto

JR Kyoto Station Central Exit, Karasuma Dori Shiokoji Shimoru, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto City