The ``view of cooking'' that a 37-year-old who respects classics aims for

Chinese proverbs often appear in the quietly told stories. These words are beautifully written in calligraphy, framed, and adorn the walls of Chazenka. ``Wakon Kansai'' and ``Shinmitadakoretan.'' As I looked at the kanji that I couldn't understand at first glance, head chef Tomoya Kawada carefully explained the meaning of each one.

"'Wakon Kansai' is a word that refers to the spiritual world unique to Japan and the learning cultivated in mainland China, and these four letters express the harmony between them. This is exactly the type of cuisine that I am aiming for. I use this word as my ideal. On the other hand, ``Mami Tadashi Tan'' means that the true taste lies in the lightness. However, the ingredients we use are from Japan. I believe we must keep this spirit in mind when creating dishes that take advantage of the flavor of domestic ingredients."

The way he talks with a smile on his face as if he's having fun reminds me of a Japanese language professor. ``People always think I'm in my 40s,'' says the embarrassed 37-year-old head chef, which seems to reflect his personality.

It was once again ranked in the "Asia's 2020 Best Restaurants" announced in March 3, and maintains its two Michelin stars. While there are many chefs who have a "healthy ambition" and a somewhat arrogant atmosphere, Kawada's calmness may seem unassuming at first glance, but the more you listen to his attitude towards cooking, the more you gradually realize that he is a passionate and soulful person. It's here.

I realized that there is something more important than a career.

Please take a look at Kawada's profile here. The names of three famous restaurants appear, but he trained at a Sichuan restaurant for the first 3 years, and then worked at a Japanese restaurant for the next five years. Chinese and Japanese cuisine. Even though the dishes are the same, they are different genres, from the cooking method to the thought process, and changing genres at the age of 10 means ``starting over from scratch.'' Why reset your career to Japanese food? Are you tired of Chinese food?

“On the contrary, if I wanted to make authentic Chinese food in Japan, I started thinking around the age of 26 that even if I just tried to recreate the authentic taste, I wouldn’t be able to reach the destination I wanted. I took time off to travel around the continent and worked hard to learn about techniques and ingredients.''

Even though customers said it was delicious, they were no longer satisfied with it. Why can't I give my own cooking a passing grade? What I came up with was the term ``Japanese Spirit and Kansai.'' He came to the conclusion that ``unless we sublimate our own taste in Japan, we will only imitate it,'' and decided that the only way to do that was to go to a first-class Japanese restaurant and learn from scratch how to deal with Japanese ingredients. .
After frequenting Ryugin's Seiji Yamamoto, he joined the restaurant and began his studies again. His diligent learning experience has paid off, and his success since returning to Chinese cooking after five years of training has earned him the support of many fans.

The topic of the interview was all about Eastern thought and the wonders of kanji.
``I love the kanji for ``light.'' The combination of sanzu and flame, or water and fire, creates ``lightness.'' How profound is that? Chinese cuisine is a cuisine of fire, and Japanese cuisine is a cuisine of water. This is exactly what we are aiming for at Chazenka. Rather than combining the two strengths into one, we hope to utilize them together and create something new."

Tomoya Kawada
Born in 1982 in Tochigi Prefecture. After graduating from a local high school, he entered the Tokyo Culinary College, specializing in Chinese cuisine. While he was still in school, he started working part-time at Azabu Nagae and joined the company after graduation. After leaving the company in 2010, she joined Ryugin. In 2013, she became the sous chef at "Shoun Ryugin" in Taiwan. He left the company in 2016 and opened Chazenka the following year. In the same year, he received two Michelin stars. Ranked in the 2 "Best Restaurants in Asia" for the first time.

Sazenka
4-7-5 Minamiazabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo
050-3188-8819 (for reservations only)
17:00-20:30 (LO)
Irregular
Omakase course with seasonal ingredients (approximately 15 dishes) from 23,000 yen, Omakase course including dried abalone from 35,000 yen
*Tax and service charge not included

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