Obi “Odoshige Nishiki” (Tatsumura Art Textiles)

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A selection of early spring kimonos to wear in Reiwa

2020.1.22

10. The world of Sengoku warlord mode seen in the patterns of Tatsumura's masterpiece belts and armored helmets

Obi “Odoshigenishiki” (Tatsumura Art Textiles)

Kimonos and obi are indispensable for special occasions such as coming-of-age ceremonies and weddings. The spirit of Heizo Tatsumura, the founder of Tatsumura, laid the foundation for the elegance of Tatsumura's textiles, which is renowned for its excellence in art textiles and loved by many female writers and actresses, and which is still fresh and classy even in the modern era of Reiwa. I will also introduce this.

 

Tatsumura's sophistication blooms in the best-selling "Odoshigenishiki"

There are many obis that are said to be masterpieces of Tatsumura, but the famous "Odoshigenishiki" (pictured is a round obi) shown in the photo is known by many kimono lovers even if you don't know its name. This is a pattern. The design is neat and complete, and the motifs woven with overflowing colored threads boast a unique beauty.

 

This pattern is also commonly referred to as ``Yoroi-odoshi.'' The spelling of armor and helmet tags with thread or leather is called ``otoshi,'' but the character ``odoshi'' is used because it means ``to wield power'' in battle. It seems that it has become. Many designs and colors were put into the mai-no-o to serve as the uniform of a warrior and to express the dignity of a military commander in battle. There are ones with a single color such as red, yellow, purple, and black, those with small patterns, those with a gradation-like color scheme, and those that incorporate other costume designs such as a plant streamer. There are a wide variety of designs, such as katatori and tsumadori, which have designs similar to the patterns on modern kimonos. It would be no exaggeration to say that this is the world of mode that blossomed during the Sengoku period.

 

``Uke Nishiki'' incorporates the interesting design of Takeshi into the obi pattern. The four types of majesty, cherry blossoms, and maple leaves are woven onto satin fabric using weft threads in Tatsumura's carefully selected colors. This obi was exhibited at the ``First International Handicraft Exhibition'' held at Kaiserdamm in Berlin in May 13, and won the gold medal. Currently, new and sophisticated designs are also being announced, such as the ``Keiga pine brocade'' pictured below, which combines the power of pine.

Fukuro obi “Keiga pine brocade” (Tatsumura Art Textiles) Fukuro obi “Keiga pine brocade” (Tatsumura Art Textiles)

Fukuro obi “Keiga pine brocade” (Tatsumura Art Textiles)


text by Akira Tanaka

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