Selected as ``World's 50 Best Restaurants'' for the first time in two and a half yearsUnraveling the future of the food and beverage industry
Written by Takanori Nakamura
Monkey October 10th. The 2021 "World's 50 Best Restaurants" award ceremony was held in Antwerp, the second largest city in the Kingdom of Belgium. After being postponed again due to the coronavirus pandemic, this was the first award ceremony in two and a half years.
This award is a ranking determined by voting once a year by 1040 food experts from around the world, but this time, an additional vote will be held in two and a half years, and it will also reflect the activities of restaurants during the coronavirus pandemic. The voting results were based on this. As for the ranking results, please refer to the list displayed, but the number one spot to watch is Denmark's "noma". This is the fifth time in total that Chef Rene Redzepi has won the top spot at this award, but since ``Noma'' has been restarted as a new restaurant after relocating, strictly speaking, it is the ``new'' ``Noma''. This will be his first time in first place.
Denmark's "noma" took first place in 2021. This is the fifth time he has won first place.
Second place was taken by Geranium, also from Denmark, demonstrating the strength of Scandinavian companies in the gastronomy industry. Third place went to Asador Echebarri from Spain's Basque Country. Chef Victor also received the Chef's Choice Award, which is decided by a vote of chefs. The 2 award ceremony was held in Bilbao, Spain, and the evaluation of "Asador Echebarri" takes into account not only that influence but also the fact that it uses wood-fired heat as a heat source to create new flavors. I guess that's the case. This primitive approach, which can be said to be the opposite of the molecular cuisine that has sparked a culinary revolution since the 2018st century, is also challenging the future of gastronomy. There is also an interesting trend of restaurants in Central and South America, with 21th place ``Central'' and 4th place ``Mido'' from Peru, and 9th place ``Pujol'' from Mexico. It is also proof that this award reflects the diversity of world gastronomy that it embodies.
A drastic change in the power balance of gastronomy. The new world of gastronomy is accelerating
What caught my attention in this top ranking is that there are no French restaurants in the top 20. In 23rd place, Paris' Arpège finally makes an appearance. The stronghold of French restaurants, which were supposed to be a symbol of history and authority in gastronomy, has collapsed, and it can be said to be a symbol of the rapid changes in the balance of power in gastronomy. This time, for the first time in two and a half years, including the coronavirus pandemic, there were eight new entrants from around the world, and two revived stores. It's a difficult time for restaurants, including measures to take against the coronavirus, but on the other hand, it's also an opportunity for restaurants all over the world, and I don't think there's ever been a more interesting time from the perspective of the diners.
Looking at the top 50 list, we notice a change in the dynamics of gastronomy.
As Mr. Rene Redzepi, who won first place, said on stage about the reason for winning the award, ``to keep changing and to keep taking on new challenges,'' he said that he wanted to explore all the possibilities that a restaurant can offer. It is hoped that this will continue in the future of gastronomy. At the very least, this is a point that should not be overlooked regarding this award.
Den, NARISAWA, and Florilege won prizes.
The struggles of Japanese athletes continue even during the coronavirus pandemic
This year, three Japanese restaurants won prizes. The top Japanese racer went to "Den" from Jingumae, Tokyo, which took 11th place, the same as last time. It's a shame that they're barely within the top 10, but given the current restrictions on entry into Japan, I think it's a great success.
``NARISAWA'' in Aoyama, Tokyo ranked 19th, moving up from the previous ranking. Its continued popularity suggests that people around the world are finally catching up to the worldview of ``Innovative Satoyama Cuisine'' that Yoshihiro Narisawa has consistently expressed. And in 39th place was ``Florerege'' in Jingumae, Tokyo. He achieved the remarkable feat of being ranked in the world for the first time. My impression is that chef Hiroyasu Kawate's steady efforts over the past few years have led to this result. I hope that they will continue to aim for even greater heights next year and beyond.
``Den'' ranked 11th, the highest ranking in Japan, and ``NARISAWA'' moved up its ranking from last time to 19th. ``Florerege'' ranked 39th in its first award.
Creating a future of food that leaves no one behind
Living the post-corona era with a positive message
This year's awards were hosted by the Flanders region and held at the Flanders Meeting and Convention Center in Antwerp, where chefs from 40 countries gathered and over 120 people, including 700 international media representatives, gathered from all over the world. . In Belgium, as long as you have received two vaccinations or have proof of a negative antibody test taken within 48 hours, you are free to enter restaurants, and there are no restrictions on alcohol or shortened working hours. As you can see from the photos, there were very few people wearing masks at the venue.
My personal impression is that the restaurant scene in Belgium and France is almost back to normal. Moreover, large-scale gastronomic events like this are starting to be held. Japan still has travel restrictions in place from within the EU, but this gives the impression that it is unfair due to international reciprocity. Of course, we are aware that there are a variety of opinions, but isn't it an urgent task for Japan to revive the food and beverage industry, which is the cornerstone of tourism?
The venue, the Flanders Meeting Convention Center, was attended by 700 people from all over the world.
From Japan, Natsuko Shoji of "Ete", who was selected for 50NEXT, also participated.
By the way, the main themes of this year's awards were not just to compete for rankings, but to ``create a future of food that leaves no one behind'' and ``send a positive message.'' “Everyone” refers not only to chefs and restaurant staff, but also to all people involved in food, including those in the tourism industry, agriculture, forestry and fisheries industries, livestock processors, and tableware and food researchers. Don't overlook that. By holding this award, we aim to support the many people involved both physically and mentally. In that sense, I personally strongly hope that such an event will be held in Japan as well.
By the way, 50 Best is in line with this belief and is preparing for next year's ``World's 50 Best Restaurants'' and ``Asia's 50 Best Restaurants.'' It will be announced on the official website at some point, so please keep an eye on it. I sincerely hope that after this coronavirus pandemic, people will wake up to the true nature of food and that there will be a bright revival in the future.
Profile
Takanori Nakamura
columnist. Born in Hayama Town, Kanagawa Prefecture. She is active in newspapers, magazines, and TV with themes of fashion, gourmet, wine, travel, and lifestyle. She currently serves as the Japan Council Chair for the World's 50 Best Restaurants. He is a 7th degree Kendo teacher. He is a tea ceremony professor at the Dainippon Tea Ceremony Society. His books include ``Pilgrimage training through famous restaurant recipes'' (Sekai Bunkasha) and co-authored ``The Cigar Life'' (Ota Publications).
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