“Minagawa Makiko Textile Worldview” Yumiko Hara 01

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Makiko Minagawa's world view of textiles

2019.9.10

4. “HaaT” clothing proposed by stylist Yumiko Hara to adult women

Yumiko Hara, who has been working as a stylist since the 70s, cannot forget the shock she felt when HaaT (Heart) debuted. HaaT, created by Makiko Minagawa, a professional in Issey Miyake's textile department, was a new kind of clothing that Hara had always wanted: ``adult women can wear it in their own way without feeling nervous.'' Hara, who has been watching the fashion world for a long time, writes about the charm of HaaT that she feels.

 

 

Written by Yumiko Hara

My job is to select clothes for the magazine pages and introduce them through photos. I vividly remember the first HaaT outfit I featured. This was in 2000, when HaaT was announced as a brand inspired by textiles. By this time, the Paris Collection, which had been a distant dream, had become a familiar word and was beginning to emerge from the turbulent waters of the bursting of the bubble economy. It was also a time when foreign brands and young Japanese brands coexisted side by side, and fast fashion, which continues to exist today, was beginning to assert its existence. Although she was happy that her range of choices was expanding rapidly, she felt like she was always looking for clothes that she could wear in a way that made her feel like herself, without being a grown woman's preconceptions.

From the collection of ASHA BY MDS From the collection of ASHA BY MDS

From the collection of ASHA BY MDS

That's when I came across HaaT's clothing, which makes the most of Indian handicrafts. The director is Makiko Minagawa, who has been in charge of Issey Miyake's textiles since the 70s and has demonstrated her abilities. Speaking of Issey Miyake and India, I also remember the ``ASHA BY MDS'' brand that started in the 80s. I was impressed by the luxurious and rich world view that translated Indian craftsmanship into practical products in terms of food, clothing, and shelter. The loose white cotton coat dress worn by one of her older friends and the ecru bedspread with pin tucks that she had taken the plunge to acquire immediately come to mind.


Created using traditional techniques and unique sensibilities
I sympathize with HaaT's commitment and worldview.

I was hoping to find clothes that were a little more familiar than ASHA BY MDS, and that brought together high-quality, comfortable materials and delicate handwork that could only be found in India, with Minagawa's unique flair. Even though the clothes were based on Indian materials and techniques, they were confident that they would never fall into the trap of becoming ethnic or nationalistic, and would instead be made into clothes that were uniquely Japanese. The first thing that caught my attention was a short coat with a small collar, stitched with traditional Indian motifs using a treadle sewing machine. It has thin padding and is made of nylon. There is no chemical impression, and the padding gives it a sharp look. I was drawn to it because I felt it had a sense of playfulness. It was a coat that you would want to wear over a simple top and pants or dress. It had the charm of being a way to casually satisfy your sense of fashion while relaxing a little while taking time for yourself rather than for work. Since then, I have been looking at exhibitions each season and using the products that caught my eye in the magazine's serial pages.

From the Fall/Winter 2019 collection. From the Fall/Winter 2019 collection.

From the Fall/Winter 2019 collection.

Subtly ethnic Indian-style blouses and dresses are made with HaaT's high-quality cotton and delicate embroidery, and by keeping the volume to a just the right fit, they can become high-quality, casual wear for adults. I was taught.

From the 2018 HaaT Spring/Summer Collection From the 2018 HaaT Spring/Summer Collection

From the 2018 HaaT Spring/Summer Collection

The romantic long skirt with a border-like hem pattern was transformed into a jacquard weave, giving it a sense of elegance and making it an extraordinary piece that you will want to wear forever. Recently, I think a simple polo collar short-sleeved dress with beautiful green kabila stitching was shocking. The cotton was comfortable to touch and wear, and the stitching created a three-dimensional effect and shadow, giving the green color depth. It's simple, simple, and extremely talkative. I had no choice but to take my hat off to the unfathomable power of traditional techniques that are evolving with the times.

From the 2017 HaaT Fall/Winter Collection From the 2017 HaaT Fall/Winter Collection

From the 2017 HaaT Fall/Winter Collection

I can't forget the Tamasha bag, a HaaT product that has always conveyed the charm of handicrafts from the beginning. Bags in a variety of colors and shapes, all of a reasonable size, with bili embroidery. When you want to feel good and casually go out, it creates a completely different look than a leather bag or large tote. Even if you're going out casually in a pongee kimono, carrying Tamasha will give you a look that's unique to you.

Another thing we must not forget is ORJ, who recently joined HaaT. Simple and active items are elegantly designed with subdued colors and practical materials. This new line has the power to completely change the look by freely combining it with HaaT.

 

→ Next time is Hiromi Yamamura (model).

(Titles omitted)

Profile

Yumiko Hara
stylist, fashion director

Born in 1945. He has been a staff member of the magazine ``AnAn'' since its launch, and began working as a stylist at the magazine in 1972. Since then, she has been involved in numerous fashion pages, including ``Fujin Koron'', ``Croissant'', ``Elle Japon'', and ``Marie Claire Japan Edition''. A conversation with Yumiko Hara is included in ``Let's Have Tea: A Conversation with Kuniko Mukoda and 16 People'' (Kawade Shobo Shinsha). Her books include ``Yumiko Hara's Work 1970→'' (Bookman Publishing) and ``Yumiko Hara's Kimono Almanac'' (CCC Media House).

 

 

HaaT/ISSEY MIYAKE INC.
https://www.isseymiyake.com/haat/ja

Photography by © ISSEY MIYAKE INC. Yuriko Takagi

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