Grand Seiko Elegance Collection SBGH201 The blue steel second hand contrasts beautifully with the white dial, and the elegant exterior follows Grand Seiko's design philosophy known as "Seiko Style." Automatic caliber 9S85 Case: SS, sapphire glass Bracelet: SS Diameter 40.2mm 620,000 yen (excluding tax)

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SEIKO ~ To the top of the world

2019.10.3

GRAND SEIKO
~From Shizukuishi Kobo. The pinnacle of watches realized by Gold Meister's outstanding craftsmanship (Part 2)

Grand Seiko Elegance Collection SBGH201 The blue steel second hand contrasts beautifully with the white dial, and the elegant exterior follows Grand Seiko's design philosophy known as "Seiko Style."
Automatic caliber 9S85 Case: SS, sapphire glass Bracelet: SS Diameter 40.2mm 620,000 yen (excluding tax)

Grand Seiko watches are gaining worldwide acclaim for their Japanese aesthetic sense and sophisticated manufacturing techniques. While delving into its essence, we will introduce two premium brands that represent Seiko watches. In the second part, we will introduce GRAND SEIKO, a brand that inherits Japanese aesthetics, dignity, and timeless values, as well as making full use of the technology of Seiko watches, which are one of the few manufactures in the world. In preparation for the 2020th anniversary of the brand's birth in 60, we visited Shizukuishi, the sacred place of Grand Seiko, where they refine their techniques.


One of the few manufactures in the world.
Delicate and precise techniques of master craftsmen who have mastered their craftsmanship

Since its inception in 1960, Grand Seiko (GS) has strived to be the pinnacle of timepieces, embodying Japanese aesthetics and dignity. Their high precision and overwhelming quality have astounded the world, and have even raised the reputation of Japanese watches themselves. The Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio at Morioka Seiko Industries brings these GS mechanical watches to the world. He visited the site in search of the craftsmanship cultivated there.

Morioka Seiko Industries is located in Shizukuishi Town, Iwate Prefecture. Inside this building is the Shizukuishi High-Class Watch Studio, which manufactures high-end mechanical watches.This is the holy ground for GS.Most of the 10mXNUMX site is surrounded by green trees, and most of it is green space that makes use of primeval forest. We also strive to protect the natural environment by managing and maintaining insects, insects, and animals. Morioka Seiko Industries is located in Shizukuishi Town, Iwate Prefecture. Inside this building is the Shizukuishi High-Class Watch Studio, which manufactures high-end mechanical watches.This is the holy ground for GS.Most of the 10mXNUMX site is surrounded by green trees, and most of it is green space that makes use of primeval forest. We also strive to protect the natural environment by managing and maintaining insects, insects, and animals.

Morioka Seiko Industries is located in Shizukuishi Town, Iwate Prefecture. Inside this building is the Shizukuishi High-Class Watch Studio, which manufactures high-end mechanical watches.This is the holy ground for GS.Most of the 10mXNUMX site is surrounded by green trees, and most of it is green space that makes use of primeval forest. We also strive to protect the natural environment by managing and maintaining insects, insects, and animals.

Morioka Seiko Industries was established in 1970 in Shizukuishi Town, overlooking the famous Mt. Iwate. Looking back at its history, Seikosha was established in 1881 as a watch manufacturing factory for Hattori Watch Store, which was founded in 1892. From there, Daini Seikosha (currently Seiko Instruments) became independent as a watch division in 1937 and took charge of its production. With a history spanning more than a century, the city now has a state-of-the-art factory that manufactures quartz movements and various parts, as well as a Shizukuishi luxury watch workshop that manufactures high-end mechanical watches. This is Seiko's main production base, where high technology and craftsmanship are both the driving forces.

 

Morioka Seiko Industries is located in a scenic area surrounded by mountains, about 20 minutes by car from Morioka Station on the Tohoku Shinkansen. The vast grounds of approximately 10 square meters are lined with well-kept trees and surrounded by rich nature with a stream running through them. From the Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio, the trees that change their appearance depending on the season appear in the window like a moving image, giving the craftsmen a rest. Iwate Prefecture has long been known as a manufacturing city, and has a deep-rooted culture of nurturing traditional techniques representative of Japan, such as iron products such as Nambu Tekki and lacquer products such as Iwayado chest of drawers. Now, the craftsmen who create the highest quality watches are making full use of their sophisticated techniques to begin marking a new chapter in history.

Inside the workshop, work desks made of lacquered Iwayado chest of drawers are lined up, and the best of the best work there, facing microscopes, assembling the pieces. Inside the workshop, work desks made of lacquered Iwayado chest of drawers are lined up, and the best of the best work there, facing microscopes, assembling the pieces.

Inside the workshop, work desks made of lacquered Iwayado chest of drawers are lined up, and the best of the best work there, facing microscopes, assembling the pieces.

Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio was established in 2004 as the only factory in Japan with a manufacturing system. We handle everything from manufacturing parts such as tiny screws and gears for high-end mechanical watches to assembly. Currently, there are about 80 people working at the company, and about 30 elite technicians work on the assembly, adjustment, and inspection processes. In the clean room, which is completely isolated from the outside world, each person works at a separate desk for precision work. However, there are large windows on the walls, so you can soothe your eyes with the view of the natural scenery that spreads out from there. This was done in order to convey the warmth of the human body through the precision of the watch without interrupting concentration.

 

We spoke to Tsutomu Ito, leader of movement assembly, about the technology and role of the Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio, which creates each piece by hand, and the appeal of the GS. Last year, Ito achieved Gold, the highest level of the workshop's unique Meister system. Under this system, successors are nominated and trained as a condition of certification, in order to acquire more advanced techniques in specialized fields and to pass on the skills of craftsmen. There are three ranks: Gold, Silver, and Bronze, and certification is held once every two years, but there are currently only six people in Gold. It is said that the technical level of the Silver holders is the highest in the domestic industry, and the Gold certification is a milestone that took 20 years for Ito to reach, and it can be said to be the pinnacle of a certified technician.

Tsutomu Ito quickly rose to prominence after joining the company in 1991. In 2000, he moved to the luxury goods manufacturing workplace, which was the predecessor of the Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio, and was in charge of "Grand Seiko." He begins by adjusting the hairspring, and then assembles and adjusts the entire 9S movement. After passing the IW Meister, the most difficult skill certification for mechanical watches, he has been demonstrating his skills on the front lines as an assembler and adjuster of Grand Seiko mechanical watches. Tsutomu Ito quickly rose to prominence after joining the company in 1991. In 2000, he moved to the luxury goods manufacturing workplace, which was the predecessor of the Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio, and was in charge of "Grand Seiko." He begins by adjusting the hairspring, and then assembles and adjusts the entire 9S movement. After passing the IW Meister, the most difficult skill certification for mechanical watches, he has been demonstrating his skills on the front lines as an assembler and adjuster of Grand Seiko mechanical watches.

Tsutomu Ito quickly rose to prominence after joining the company in 1991. In 2000, he was transferred to the luxury goods manufacturing workplace, which was the predecessor of the Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio, and was in charge of "Grand Seiko." He begins by adjusting the hairspring, and then assembles and adjusts the entire 9S movement. After passing the IW Meister, the most difficult skill certification for mechanical watches, he has been demonstrating his skills on the front lines as an assembler and adjuster of Grand Seiko mechanical watches.


Learn techniques through experience and sensitivity.
You can learn fine adjustments such as tightening screws with your fingertips.

Ito joined the company in 1991 and was assigned to the automatic quartz movement line, then volunteered to work on mechanical manufacturing when his department was reorganized. Coincidentally, GS was revived in 1998 and continues to this day. The workshop was finally opened in 2004. The most notable change was the newly established GS test. This is a unique accuracy standard that exceeds the Swiss chronometer standard, and for accuracy testing, we have imposed a check on six position differences, instead of the usual five position differences (accuracy differences caused by the watch's position). “While the early GS utilized the handmade feel of a craft, we have thoroughly improved precision and quality. This means seeking perfection in even the smallest details.Therefore, improvements are made in everything. Even now, when foreign journalists come to see the work, they are amazed at the beauty of the parts and say that even in Switzerland they put so much effort into making them. There is a strict method of producing good quality products uniformly, and the inspections follow suit."

There are over 200 parts built into a high-end mechanical watch. Many of these parts are manufactured in-house. The craftsmen use screwdrivers to tighten the small screws, which are difficult to even grasp with tweezers. There are over 200 parts built into a high-end mechanical watch. Many of these parts are manufactured in-house. The craftsmen use screwdrivers to tighten the small screws, which are difficult to even grasp with tweezers.

There are over 200 parts built into a high-end mechanical watch. Many of these parts are manufactured in-house. The craftsmen use screwdrivers to tighten the small screws, which are difficult to even grasp with tweezers.

We adhere to high standards and mass produce to ensure that there are no differences in quality. This means that you won't be able to pass the GS standard unless you go that far. However, no matter how much you decide on tolerances and make parts within those limits, there are times when you end up with differences when you try to assemble them. “The skill of the assembler is to fill that gap,” says Ito. "No two movements are assembled the same, and it's always a new challenge. However, the good thing about our company is that if we can't solve the problem with assembly alone, we can immediately consult the design department. We can then re-simulate and reflect the results. That's why it's constantly being improved."

 

What is the most interesting part of such assembly work? ``The interesting and most difficult part is adjusting the accuracy. There is a numerical value that can be used as an indicator, and the first step is to get close to it. Sometimes my intuition based on the experience I have cultivated is correct, and sometimes I am still wrong. There are many things that don't apply to technology or new works, so I'm learning as I go.'' He obtained his Gold Meister certification last year and says his mindset as a technician has changed. "My responsibilities have grown, and I think this is thanks to the training I received from my seniors. What's more, they encouraged me to realize that I was responsible for the company," he says with a laugh. You can feel the pride they take in making watches in their workshops. What kind of existence is the Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio at Grand Seiko? ``I think it's the cornerstone of mechanical watches, or to put it cool, it's a sacred place,'' he says proudly.

Inside the workshop, the workers hold their breath as they work, looking at extremely small parts through a microscope. The Caliber 9S85 is produced. Inside the workshop, the workers hold their breath as they work, looking at extremely small parts through a microscope. The Caliber 9S85 is produced.

Inside the workshop, the workers hold their breath as they work, looking at extremely small parts through a microscope. The Caliber 9S85 is produced.


So what is the appeal of Grand Seiko? “The GS from the Daini Seikosha era was a mechanical model that pursued accuracy similar to modern radio-controlled clocks.However, just like the significance of mechanical watches in modern times, the current GS is a model that evokes a sense of satisfaction and ownership. I think it satisfies my needs.It's highly accurate and practical, so you can use it on a daily basis without feeling out of place, and it also satisfies your desire to own it.Moreover, as you continue to use it, you'll discover beauty that you never noticed before. This is a watch that has a fresh appeal.That's why we pay attention to even the invisible parts of every step.'' As someone involved in watchmaking, Ito wonders what kind of watches he would like to make in the future. ``I'd like to make my own watch, but I really like the GS.It's something I've always admired, and it's still the pinnacle for me.''

Image video of Milan Design Week 2019 “THE NATURE OF TIME”.
--"THE NATURE OF TIME" Tokyo store held--
Grand Seiko exhibited at Milan Design Week in April this year for the second time. The exhibition in Milan will be reconfigured to express the ``transcending flow of time and its permanence'' as a space, reflected by the ``Spring Drive,'' a unique mechanism with a fluidly moving second hand. "THE NATURE OF TIME" Tokyo exhibition will be held at jing in Harajuku from October 10th (Wednesday) to October 16th (Sunday).

GRAND SEIKO Grand Seiko
In 1960, the first Grand Seiko was announced. Aiming to be the world's best wristwatch, we continue to pursue and realize the essence of a wristwatch at a high level, such as accuracy, beauty, and legibility. From the launch of the brand's first quartz model in 1988, to the 93F quartz movement in 9, the 98S series of mechanical movements in 9, and the revolutionary 2004R Spring Drive movement in 9. Since 2010, we have expanded overseas to include Asia, Europe, the Middle East, Australia, America, and Central and South America.
https://www.grand-seiko.com/
http://www.shizukuishi-watch.com/

 

(Titles omitted)

 

SEIKO ~ To the top of the world (Part 1)

Text by Mitsuru Shibata
Photography by Takashi Sekiguchi

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