Jurgen Lehr cherishes reverence for nature.
Babaguri's yukata flowing down his robe.

``I want to create things that are essential to me, such as carefully handcrafted clothes and tools for daily life, using materials that do not pollute the environment or the soil, with a sense of reverence for nature,'' says Jurgen Lehr. Babaguri is a brand born from this idea. There are many longtime fans of the comfortable clothes that are created using yarn, dyeing, and weaving that cannot be achieved through mass production.

I heard that a new yukata series was added to the Babagouri collection this year, so I visited the main store in Kiyosumi Shirakawa. A corner of a spacious store with high ceilings that was originally a warehouse. Fabrics in muted colors are arranged neatly on a large piece of teak. ``It was around the beginning of last summer that we started to think that yukata might be a good summer outfit,'' says Naoko Aoyama, who works in material development at Jurgenrehr Co., Ltd.'s production department. The idea was to create something that would be comfortable to wear, like clothes, and that could be easily washed when sweaty, so they first searched for yukata fabric from all over Japan.

Between the cloth and the body
A cool breeze passes through
Yukata that is surprisingly soft and gentle to the touch

The material chosen was Chita Momen, which has been woven on the Chita Peninsula in Aichi Prefecture since the Edo period. "On the Chita Peninsula, shuttle looms developed at the beginning of the Meiji era are used. They are a machine that is halfway between today's machine weaving and hand weaving, and the weaving speed is slow. As a result, there is no stress on the threads. This gives it a soft texture, making it durable and supple." When you pull out the fabric from the fabric, you can feel the fluffy, lightness and softness. I can imagine that a yukata made from this would not only be gentle on the skin, but would also allow air to flow between the fabric and the body, keeping it cool.

The design left behind by Jurgen Lehr
Careful handwork makes the most of it
The tasteful hand-printed design

The colors and patterns were born from further deepening Babagouri's brand concept of ``proposing careful handwork.'' For example, there is a series of geometric and botanical patterns hand-printed from woodblocks in a workshop in India. “This woodblock print was originally produced for a Babagouli product in the past, and includes patterns designed by Jurgen and his rails himself.” The woodblock print is said to be large enough to be held in the hand, but as it is pushed onto 13 meters of yukata fabric one by one, natural ``shifts'' and ``faints'' occur. The beautiful striped pattern with intricate colors and fine stripes is also made using woodblock prints and dyed using traditional Indian plant dyeing techniques. Since it is made with natural dyes, the color changes each time you wash it, which will help you become more attached to it. “I would be happy if you could enjoy the unique taste of handmade and natural products in a yukata that you won’t find anywhere else.”

There are also a series of items in which the designer hand-painted sumi-e on long pieces of yukata fabric, as well as items screen-printed in a studio in Kyoto, all with unique patterns. ``Since the colors are soothing, including indigo and ink, as well as red and orange, it was well received by both adult men and women as well as young people in their 20s who were making a yukata for the first time.''

Obi, hairpin, parasol,
Accessories that make your outfit look stylish
dress freely

The obi is a clean, plain color that is easy to match with a yukata. The plant-dyed, hand-woven silk from Laos is narrower than the traditional half-width belt, so it feels less pressure on the chest. Chita Momen's Heiko Obi is easy to tighten, and at the same time has a moderate amount of stiffness that makes it easy to shape. ``At the recital held at our main store in Kiyosumi, the men wore snakeskin instead of obi, so we hope everyone can enjoy it in their own way.''

Parasols made from yukata fabric, hand towels printed with patterns from the same series as yukata, small goat mesh bags made from finely woven goat leather, geta sandals made from finely woven goat leather, and hand-carved buffalo horns. There are also items such as hairpins that can be incorporated into yukata as well as everyday wear.

Each goat mesh bag is carefully woven by hand by craftsmen, and even if you want it for a yukata, it can be used for a long time for other occasions as well. It was felt that the brand's idea of ​​``providing essential items for daily life'' is alive and well in Babagouri's new challenge of creating a yukata.

(Titles omitted)

babaghuri

Jurgen Lehr is a designer who lives with and cherishes nature. Babagouri's origins lie in the philosophy of Yogan, who wanted to provide clothing, food, and everything necessary for daily life that harmonizes with nature without destroying it, and that follows a path that returns to nature. brand. Even after his sudden passing in 2014, his kimono has been passed down and has many fans.

Babaguri Kiyosumi Main Store
https://jurgen-lehl-for-babaghuri-jp.tumblr.com/

Official Account
https://www.instagram.com/babaghuri/

→Continued with Cherishing the Seasons/Baba Gourli's Summer (Part 2)